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When compiling a roll of London’s top eateries, one might foresee familiar high-end establishments. Yet, nestled near the top among these food heavyweights is a modest salonu located in a distant corner of north London.

An Surprise Honour

The small Turkish spot, concentrating in the culinary delights of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been crowned the fourth best restaurant in the metropolis by a respected gastronomic guide. The recognition has made the owners totally astonished.

“I’m totally astonished,” says a family member, referring to his family’s hard graft that culminated in their humble place earning such a lofty ranking on a respected 99-strong list.

The Character of Simplicity

This small shop, which used to be a simple cafe before its transformation into a buzzing food hotspot, has maintained much of its original feel. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, aside from the dazzling live cooking performance, the setup remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky spot,” comments the owner.

A Star Dish: Tantuni

In the end, it’s focused on the cuisine, and this restaurant definitely delivers. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated pleasure. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is steamed to keep a tender texture.

The meat is then tossed into a large pan with seasonings and oil, which are added in gradually. As the savoury mixture bubbles up, freshly made lavaş—a pliable bread—is placed on top to take in all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley are added before the flavourful meat is rolled neatly inside.

The wrap is often consumed with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a powerful slap of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, punchy onions and rich, paprika-red oil bringing it all together.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A prominent food critic called this dish “a part of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a treat. It is coated in less syrup than found elsewhere, giving it a deeper, more aromatic and less sickly taste.

Outranking the Stars

Remarkably, this unassuming spot has outplaced several illustrious three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself just behind the top of the list, following other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave this place stuffed for under £25, equivalent tasting menus at high-end establishments can cost many times that price.

A Creed of Warmth

It is also among several Turkish restaurants featured and is located well outside the city’s prime zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and best food but I don’t agree with that,” states the owner.

“I feel what is crucial is warmth, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

The philosophy is supported by the list’s curator, who remarked that if he was in a position of power, he would “require to make every chef in London train at this restaurant as a final lesson, to show them the traps of overthinking, and to show what is possible if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Story of Dedication

Unlike many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food did not work at fancy restaurants. “I feel very proud of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

Many restaurants need years to become successful, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its success is thanks to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum would be extremely tired. She would go shopping in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. All of it is handmade; she would manage all of this. She is a solo parent and she balanced a personal life but her friends would support her to support her. She had children and a house to care for as well. Each of these duties made her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he shares.

An Recognition for the People

The restaurant’s success is set to resonate beyond its own premises. “In my opinion numerous people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” concludes the owner, pointing out the broader importance of this gastronomic achievement.