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Whenever assembling a ranking of London’s finest dining spots, one might foresee well-known award-winning establishments. But, tucked high among these gastronomic giants is a simple salonu found in a distant area of northern London.

An Surprise Accolade

This small Turkish restaurant, focusing in the street food of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s south coast, has been declared the fourth top restaurant in the metropolis by a prominent gastronomic guide. The recognition has made the owners totally surprised.

“I’m totally surprised,” says the owner’s son, pointing to his parents’ relentless work that led to their small restaurant achieving such a prominent ranking on a respected 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Simplicity

This compact space, which used to be a basic cafe before its transformation into a popular spot, has retained much of its original feel. It seats just more than 20 people and, except for the vibrant live cooking display, the setup remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky place,” notes the owner.

The Star Creation: Tantuni

In the end, it’s all about the food, and this restaurant definitely succeeds. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a simple delight. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to maintain a tender quality.

The meat is then added into a sizeable pan with flavours and oil, which are incorporated in slowly. As the flavourful mixture heats through, handmade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is slapped on top to absorb all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley are placed before the savoury meat is folded tightly inside.

It is typically eaten with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a mighty slap of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, punchy onions and rich, paprika-red oil tying it all in harmony.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A respected food critic described this dish “among London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For dessert, the eatery’s künefe proves a treat. It is soaked in less syrup than is typical, giving it a deeper, toastier and not overly sweet flavour.

Rising Above the Stars

Remarkably, this unassuming restaurant has outplaced several renowned three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself just behind the peak of the list, trailing other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave this place satisfied for less than £25, similar tasting menus at high-end establishments can cost many times that figure.

A Ethos of Heart

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants included and is located well beyond the city’s central zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an costly city. There is an assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and finest food but I don’t subscribe to that,” states the owner.

“I feel what is most important is warmth, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The view is echoed by the list’s compiler, who suggested that if he were in a position of power, he would “insist to make every chef in London train at this restaurant as a masterclass, to show them the traps of overthinking, and to reveal what is achievable if you do just one – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Journey of Perseverance

In contrast to many chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food did not train at fancy establishments. “I am truly proud of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

Many restaurants require years to become successful, but this one first started seven years ago. Its acclaim is due to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum was very tired. She would source produce in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Each item is handmade; she would handle all of this. She is a single mother and she managed a personal life but her friends would support her to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. All of these duties made her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he shares.

A Achievement for the Community

This restaurant’s recognition is set to have meaning outside its own walls. “In my opinion a lot of people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” says the owner, emphasising the broader meaning of this gastronomic honour.